A hipped roof is defined as a roof with four sides and four water beams. While a gabled roof consists of two sides configured to have the look of a tent, a hipped roof has four sides that are joined in one point or on a ridge at the top. The main difference in the context of a hipped roof and gabled roof is that the former has four water beams.

Geometry

A hipped roof begins with the construction of four water beams and a main beam. If the roof’s construction is that of a square, there should be a main beam and all sides will join at a point of the top. On top of a box will be a main beam that is parallel to the two larger sides. The shape and size of the desired roof sections need to be worked out on paper before beginning construction or framers may find unexpected construction surprises.

Tilt

The slope of the roof determines the size of the beams and the roof finished appearance. The roof pitch refers to the phases of the ceiling, expressed in terms of construction as a number of inches vertical (vertical meters) falling from the roofs on a fan of 12 inches (30 cm) horizontally. A roof down 6 inches (15 cm) to 12 inches (30 cm) horizontal refers to having a beam beams 6/12. When designing a roof hipped, you will make the construction process much simpler if you assign the same beam on the four sides of the roof. While it is possible to vary them, framed very complex situations are created.

Strength

Designing a hipped roof provides advantages when it is windy. Because there are not exposed gable ends, a hipped roof withstands dangerous winds as they tend to flow over the roof rather than into it. When you’re framing a hipped roof, you can further increase their resistance to high winds by incorporating the arms of the beams and a collar system design. The arms of the beams secure the beams in the lower hipped roof joists. The collars are metal strips that are cover around the bases of the joists and secure to the ends of the beams.

Design

The frame design for a hipped roof involves some simple geometry that allows you to determine length of wood you’ll need. You can get a preview of your hipped roof design by drawing a bird’s eye view but you need to take the roof pitch into account when determining the amount of beams you’ll need.  Knowing all these steps before you start construction, minimizes waste and gives you better use of your power and time.

Ventilation ducts for dryers are quite easy to install and use, but can also cause potentially costly problems. Create a safe and reliable path for hot air to flow, fuzz and to ensure optimal operation for your dryer and protect your home from damage. Some key considerations can help you choose the best methods and materials for a dryer’s vent.

Materials

There are several effective and widely available dryer vent options. The most common is flexible aluminum, which can stretch and bend to follow the desired path. This line works well and is very versatile, but can be a little hard to expand and place at first. If ventilation should extend 10 feet (3 m), you may want to consider the rigid metal pipe. This is similar to heating and cooling ducts in your home and cause minimal air flow resistance, which is important to the other vents. Layered aluminum hoses are also available and can be useful for short distances, although they create greater air resistance than regular aluminum. Never use plastic flexible ducts for dryer vents. Although plastic ducts resemble those of aluminum and are fine for bathing, they do not hold up well with warm air and could catch fire.

Wind Route

Ideally, the path between the dryer and the end of the vent should be as short and straight as possible. If the outputs become longer and include more twists and turns, your dryer will have to work harder to push the air and increase the potential for accumulation of lint, moisture and heat. Most dryers and ventilation components include recommended settings, and the staff in the store where you purchase your system can also offer advice. As a general rule, try to keep ventilation within 25 feet (7.62 m) and minimize the number of bends (especially the 90-degree turns). When using pipes, compress them using metal clamps or foil tape to seal all joints and keep in the air and moisture to prevent it from escaping. If you run the ventilation through an unheated attic, insolate that section of pipe to prevent condensation from forming on the inside.

Starting

The dryer must always be vented to the outside, if possible. Look for a hidden place that is free of obstructions and open to good airflow to put the vent. You may also want to avoid high traffic areas or ones that are highly visible and vulnerable to water damage (for example, the bottom of a deck or stairs) to avoid problems with accumulation of moisture and lint. Ventilation near a patio or through a roof cap is usually a good choice. If needed, you can ventilate an electric dryer in a garage or use an indoor ventilation kit in the basement, but you will get a lot of moisture and lint in that room. For safety reasons, gas dryers must always be well ventilated outdoors.

Maintenance

Be sure to clean the lint trap in the dryer after every load.  If possible, avoid using fabric softener, which can worsen the problem of fluff.

Musty odors in a house are produced as a result of mold. Mold spores are generated in the air, but they require certain conditions to grow, like mushrooms. These conditions include a combination of humidity, warm temperatures, and lack of fresh air and food sources. The most common areas of the house where mold can accumulate are basements, crawl spaces, and even closets. In addition to generating an unpleasant odor, mold can damage various materials. Fortunately, it is not difficult to remove the bad odor and mold in basements.

Instructions

1. Open the windows and exterior doors in the basement during a hot day. Place a couple of portable fans in the doorway, some looking inward to cool the atmosphere and others looking out to remove the moisture.
2. Place a dehumidifier in the basement and keep it on day and night, with windows and doors closed. Check the machine and empty it frequently when it’s full. Place jars of silica gel around the room, because this substance absorbs moisture from the air.
3. Remove objects from the basement and clean them. Put them outdoors, under the sun. Remove mold gently with a brush. Wash the objects, besides paper, with a soft sponge and a foam solution of detergent and water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and let them dry in the sun. For deep cleaning mildew stains, mix two tablespoons of bleach to one quart of warm water. Apply the solution with a sponge on the stain or submerge the object. Let dry for 5 minutes, rinse with clean water and let it dry again.
4. Clean the basement floor to eliminate musty odors. Sprinkle a thin layer of lime on the floor. When the musty smell disappears, sweep up the lime. To clean carpets, remove the rust with a carpet cleaning machine.

Tips & Warnings

• The slight odor of mold can be removed only if you vent moisture and dry basement.
• Fabrics that can be washed should be taken to the cleaners.
• You must discard items that accumulate rust inside.
• Keep bleach and other harmful chemicals out of the reach of children and pets.
• Read and follow directions on the packaging of chemicals.

Inverted air creates downward pressure directing smoke and fire gases towards the inside of a home, which is a threatening situation for the owner. The downdraft may release carbon monoxide, a fatal gas to the residents. Invested chimneys require immediate attention.

Obstructions

A fireplace should have a good air circulation opening to run correctly. Some inverted air is the result of external obstructions that interfere or block the movement of air around the fireplace. A large tree near the unit, for example, can cause poor air circulation, resulting in the downdraft in the chimney. Also, nearby buildings may interfere with the airflow in the vicinity of the fire. Increasing the height of the upper part often solves the problem, as the tall chimneys have better air currents that low.

Negative pressure

A house develops negative pressure when the air is sent abroad exceeds the amount entering. The negative pressure, a major cause of the downdraft, often occurs when some appliances, such as range hoods, expel air from the house. Avoid turning the hoods on when the wood-burning fireplace is lit. You can also alleviate the negative pressure by opening windows to allow air intake.

Light the fire

Households and fireplaces operate on the basis that hot air rises. The heat creates an updraft, expelling the smoke through the unit and out of the house. When you first turn on the fire, it has not created enough heat to achieve an immediate upstream, causing a downdraft. Using newspapers or additional wood to create an intense fire to initially light it can help solve the problem, as explained by the magazine “Extreme How-To”.

Tapas

Strong wind can affect the ability of the chimney to maintain an effective updraft. The design of the top of the fireplace can also cause problems in the drafts. Special covers, however, can harness the wind to eliminate downdraft. These caps are comprised of two bells that guide the wind around the unit. As the wind blows around the top, an updraft is created, which expels smoke and gases out of the chimney.

Faux fire achieve a visual effect of flickering flames and colors like fire. It also makes an effective focal point on a fake fireplace. The advantages of the false fire include no real fire hazards, keeping the chimney clean and air smoke-free, and the opportunity to add a three-dimensional and decorative dynamic to the room. Give your fireplace the ambiance of a crackling fire with a few elements basic.

Instructions

1. Take the measurements of your fireplace. Plan for the fire to be at least half the height of its opening, Stand at a distance away and decide how wide and high you want to make your faux fire to make it look real. For example, if the distance between the floor of the fireplace and its ceiling is 30 inches, make a fire 15 inches tall. Make the fireplace at least half the width of the fireplace opening.
2. Buy small logs or cut firewood the length you decided in Step 1.
3. Fix a mirror to the back wall of the fireplace, if desired. This will increase the lighting effect and the sense of movement of the fire.
4. Draw flame shapes on cellophane with a marker. Make the shapes at different heights with each flame color based on the height range you selected in Step 1. Create different heights and shapes to achieve a realistic flame effect. Make sure they are as wide as the base and pointed at the top.
5. Cut the cellophane around the shape of the flames.
6. Stack the logs in the fireplace to give the appearance of real fire in proportion to the fake fireplace. Leave a space in the middle of the logs to place the fan.
7. Place the fan on the floor of the fireplace, looking up. A small fan with a rechargeable battery are a good option to use.
8. Paste the cellophane on the logs, alternating colors. Let the flames dry for at least 20 minutes.
9. Place a fake candle flickering in the middle of the logs and light it. Turn on the fan.