concrete repairs

What Exactly is Concrete?

Concrete is an integral part of modern society. Roads and bridges to the buildings in which we live and work, everywhere around you there are structures and infrastructure comprising concrete.  With concrete being used as a vital part of our daily lives, not many know the science behind the cement that makes it so strong and reliable.

Composition of concrete

Concrete is made ​​from more than one type of material, which is a composite material. The composite is formed with a filling material, which is an aggregate used to make concrete texture, and a binder or paste used to “glue” or unite the filling. Cement and water are the binder. The mixture of aggregates, cement and water creates the useful compound is known as concrete.

Cement

Cement is made of clay, sand, iron ore and limestone, burnt together at extremely high temperatures. Limestone must be removed and ground into small pieces. A mixer combines the small pieces of limestone, iron ore, sand and clay to form a powder of the four components. A rotary kiln into a cylinder, then burning this material composition for a maximum of two hours

Water

When water is mixed with cement, a paste which binds all components is formed. The hydration process is a chemical reaction between the water and concrete components causing the concrete to harden. You must use pure water to ensure that the chemicals react properly and create strong cement. The relationship between cement and water is crucial for the production of useful cement. Too little or too much water can cause the cement to be too weak or unviable. Useful cement requires the perfect balance between the cement and water.

Aggregates

Aggregates are another component used in making concrete. They are materials such as sand or rocks that are added to the mixture of cement and water. Since cement is the most expensive part of manufacturing of concrete, adding the cheapest concrete aggregates gives you more for less. The final product is approximately 70% to 80% of the aggregates. Choosing a type of aggregate concrete depends on the type you want to produce. You can create dense and strong concrete using dense aggregates. Similarly, the use of soft and porous aggregates, like sand, creates weaker concrete with less wear resistance. Like water, the good aggregates must be pure. Any impurities in the aggregate could interfere with the chemical reaction needed to make concrete, or cause it to be weakened.

bedroom redesign

Tips for Drilling into Drywall

Plaster walls do not present a challenge to drill into them, however, you have to be careful when drilling drywall to prevent damage or drilling in the wrong place.

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A metal detecting device can work well on a wall with plaster, but it does not determine the location of studs behind drywall. You may be able to get close to the location of the studs in the wall using one of these devices.  Once you find a stud, you can estimate that the others are about 16 inches (40.64 cm) apart from each other. If you’re still unsure about the exact location of the studs, drill pilot holes in the wall with a small mason bit. If you feel that the drill bit touches an air pocket behind the plaster, this indicates no studs. If you encounter resistance, you hit into a stud.

Perforated technique

When drilling plaster, you cannot use excessive force otherwise you run the risk of forming cracks in the drywall and the plaster crumbling. This means that if the drill has a hammer motion, do not use it, although the plaster may resist the drilling at first. You must start out drilling slowly, because the plaster is slippery on the surface and the drill can jump through the wall, entering at a wrong point.

Masking tape

An old plaster wall may collapse or break when penetrated with a nail or a drill, unlike new walls. The outer surface of drywall is where it would start to crumble, as it is broken by the force of the drill bit. To combat the tendency of the plaster to crack and crumble, place a piece of masking tape over the place where you want to puncture the wall. The tape keeps the drywall in place, instead of leaving it to break apart and crumble. When you have finished drilling, remove the tape from the wall without fear of the paint coming off.

Enlarge the hole

You can widen the hole you drill into a plaster wall if you need one wider to fit a stand. Sometimes the biggest drill bit you have available is smaller than the hole you need to use to hang an object on the wall. In such a situation, you must insert a long, thin instrument that fits inside, like a knife or a screwdriver. Use the tool to that will make the hole the size you need using circular motions against the sides of the hole.

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Removing and Preventing Mold in the Shower

Mold is a type of fungus that grows and spreads in wet places. The rim of the shower is a good place to grow because it is difficult to see. If mold is not cleaned, it can continue to grow on the shower ledge spread to the rest of the shower and even behind the shower walls if there are cracks or holes in the sealant. Treat mold with natural products in your house, without exposing yourself to chemical-based products.

Instructions

  1. Pour water over the top edge of the shower to wet the mold. By wetting the fungus you prevent it from traveling through the air during cleaning and removal which prevents mold inhalation or it traveling to another surface.
  2. Fill a spray bottle with white vinegar and generously spray the mold on the shower ledge. Let the vinegar sit for 30 minutes. Dampen a clean cloth with water, and then clean the shower ledge to remove mold and mildew.
  3. Mix a solution to help prevent mold return to your shower ledge. Measure 2 tablespoons tea tree oil and pour into a spray bottle. Add 2 cups of water and shake the bottle well.
  4. Spray the shower ledge generously with the solution. Let the oil dry on the surface and do not clean or rinse. The tea tree oil is effective for a month to keep mold from growing back.

Tips & Warnings

  • Keep a spray bottle of vinegar in your bathroom. Spray the shower walls, the door and handle after each shower.
  • A bathroom with poor ventilation will have permanent mold problems. Open a window when possible and use the fan during and after showers.
flooring-12

Cleaning Tile Grout

The maintenance and stain removal of the grout in your tile floors is a complex task and may even be exhausting, especially when you have a large area like a tiled wall or floor that have retained dirt and stains over time. To make the job of cleaning as painless as possible, you’ll need the help of some kind of solution made for this specific task.

Chlorine bleach

First, remember that you should never use chlorine bleach on colored grout because the colored surface will be damaged from fading. You can only use chlorine bleach on white grout. Also consider that in general, chlorine has its pros and cons. It offers an incredible effectiveness in cleaning stains on grout, but it’s also highly corrosive and releases some vapors. If you’re using chlorine bleach, dilute it well (“Good Housekeeping” recommends using 3/4 cup bleach to one gallon or 3.7 liters of water) and wearing gloves. Pour on to the grout lines and rub quickly with a stiff brush then rinse well.

 

Oxygen bleach

Oxygen bleach is also used to remove stains, but it is much safer to use and more natural than chlorine bleach, which contains hydrogen peroxide.  Home improvement expert Tim Carter (“Ask the Builder”) is considered the best and ultimate cleaner for grout joints. Best of all, it can even be used on colored grout without damaging them in any way. If you use oxygen bleach powder, just add water and apply it as you would chlorine bleach or any regular cleanser. Do not forget to wait at least 15 minutes before scrubbing and rinsing, as this type of cleaner releases natural ions and requires time to act.

 

Sodium bicarbonate

Another recommendation from “Good Housekeeping” magazine is baking soda. It is known that this all-purpose product can effectively remove stains on both white and colored grout and can even kill any type of mold growing on the surface of your tiles. Mix 3/4 cup of baking soda and 1/4 cup water in a bowl to form a smooth paste. Apply the paste to grout joints and rub firmly before rinsing.

PH neutral cleaner

A pH neutral cleaner has little effect when it comes to removing stubborn stains, rust and mineral deposits, but can do wonders to remove accumulated dirt in grout joints and for routine maintenance on your floors and tiles. In fact, to clean the area once a week with a neutral pH cleaner, you can prevent the formation of stains and mildew buildup. Many stores sell supplies for home cleaning products labeled as “neutral pH”, but you can use any pH balanced cleaning solution, including mild dishwashing detergent. Consider this type of cleaning as a preventive solution instead of thinking of them as stain removers.

Vinyl Replacement

Removing Sliding Windows to Clean Them

While cleaning windows, you encounter a situation where you can’t access the window from the outside so you need to remove it. If the window is too high for you or if something obstructs it, knowing how to remove it will be very useful.

Instructions

  1. Look at the window you want to remove and remove any security device that would prevent you from removing it off the track.
  2. Inspect the side rails of the window at the top to see if there are screws. If there is, remove them. The screws are another type of safety device that prevents someone from opening the panel.
  3. Check the top track of the window and look for a small piece of rubber in the center; This is where the sliding panels line up when the window is closed. This is another kind of protection to keep the windows open. Pry the piece with a screwdriver.
  4. Removes the lock on the window.
  5. Slide the window almost all the way and put your hands on the sides of the panel.
  6. Lift the entire window out, pushing the entire panel into the track above.
  7. Take the base of the panel off the track and push it down to remove it.

Tips & Warnings

  • Make sure you are very careful when removing the windows as they can be heavy. Be prepared.
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Using Bamboo Fence Rolls as Wall Covering

To give an exotic touch to a room, use bamboo fence rolls instead of wallpaper to cover a wall. It is a lightweight material and the installation procedure is simpler than wallpaper. You will not have to deal with the mess created by the pulp or creases or bubbles in rolls. Another great advantage is that the bamboo fence is much less expensive than conventional wall coverings. In the end, you’ll have a natural  looking wall that will give your space a touch of nature and tropical climates. Bamboo fences as wall covering can give life to a living room, basement or bedroom, and may improve a tropical theme.

Instructions

  1. Measure the wall you want to cover. Purchase enough bamboo fence roll to cover the desired area. The bamboo fence will be placed vertically, so buy enough to cover the required space.
  2. Display bamboo fence rolls and extend them to lie flat. Cut bamboo to the desired size with sharp pruning shears. Since bamboo is a plant, pruning shears are suitable for cutting. In addition, the cable-caliber used to keep the bamboo together can also be easily cut with the shears.
  3. Ask a friend to hold the bamboo fence against the wall you want to cover. Secure it using a staple gun. Staples placed at a distance between 10 and 12 inches (25.4 to 30.5 cm) columns, starting at one end of the fence. The columns of staples should be at a distance of 3 feet (91 cm) away. If the fence feels loose between the columns, simply add more staples. If light enough, you can use viscous glue to secure it in the wall. Moreover, if done with thick reeds, you may need to install strips of wood and put in place with screws. Make test holes and uses high-strength bolts.
  4. You can give finish to the bamboo fence with quarter round at the part where it meets the floor. Also, you can give finish to the top of the fence with molding. Apply a tint of contrasting color on the molding before installing it to give an interesting look to match the decor of the room. You can even frame each bamboo panel that make up the fence after hanging, using molding. This looks good in a large room, like a basement, because it gives a more welcoming appearance.
Backyard deck overlooking amazing nature landscape

Tips to Improve the Garden of Your Home

With some inspiration and a plan suited to your budget, you can achieve a real transformation to the exterior of your home.

One thing you may want to keep in mind is to install a deck. It provides an excellent area for you and your guests to relax, socialize and admire the rest of the garden. The deck is particularly useful when it comes to uneven areas or parts of the garden that have previously been unusable. This is because it is built on support posts with cement in the ground and therefore can be adjusted appropriately to provide a stable area for your garden.

You can also use a deck to put a barbecue in a fixed location, a place to sit a seat or a storage area.  You might want to also add outdoor furniture and a table for your guests to sit. This helps to protect the lawn and also makes the area a little more interesting and attractive.

Creating an arrangement with stones in the garden can turn out to be another great idea to make sure the garden looks beautiful. The use of suitable plants, stones and gravel will help add color and decoration to any garden.

You can use a garden with stones to create a border between the garden areas or you may want to turn this into a small arrangement that you are sure to be able to admire throughout the year. Rock gardens are also particularly good for drainage.

The soothing sound of the water while relaxing in your garden is unsurpassed. Having your own water fountain is a luxury and can become an impressive addition to your garden. In addition, there are endless design options, which means you can get a nice arrangement that matches the rest of the garden design. Check out several posts posted with many inspiring ideas for home gardens by following this link to the associated blog.

This can include fountains, waterfalls, pools and ponds of any shape or size. These arrangements will not only help produce a quiet and attractive environment, but also add dimensions to your garden as they are usually built or excavated on the ground.

A final addition you may consider is an arch pergola. This is a very popular choice in modern gardens and creates a unique and attractive walkway through the garden.

Arbor pergolas can be put in the place that best fits your garden. Creepers help add even more to the intricate decoration pergolas arches. They are very effective when used to separate sections of a garden or you may also want to use them as a private arrangement with seats below.

Hardwood outdoor furniture allows you to enjoy the patio and the garden in the warm seasons.

How to choose the right table for use in open spaces.

A good way to give your yard a makeover is to purchase a picnic table, since it will allow you to organize parties outside your home. It is also possible to use it as a study furniture or for children’s enjoyment. If this is the first time you plan to purchase an outdoor table, research in stores before buying the first thing that catches your eye.

A very important factor is the size of the picnic table, for this you should consider how many members your family has and how many friends or people you want to invite to your gatherings. Another relevant aspect is the design, as well as the material of the table. This type of furniture is available with different shapes and styles, the choice is completely yours. If you do not know what material or color to choose, consult with your family members to agree one.

Cost is another important factor, never get the picnic table that goes out of your budget or compromises your finances. If possible visit several specialty stores and ask for advice from a trained and trustworthy person.

Do not act impulsively as you might end up buying something you do not need or want. With some research and patience and checking out offers, you will find the perfect outdoor table to accentuate the look of your garden or backyard.

masonry word done in Baltimore area

Make Improvements to the Outside of Your Home

When you look at the exterior of your home, you want to see a beautiful and striking facade. It is not easy to maintain the exterior of your house, but by improving the façade of your home you can even increase its property value. Everything depends on you.  Maybe you want to sell your house in the future. Here are some tips to get started. Before spending thousands of dollars on plants and gardening items, make sure you start with the basics first.

Pay attention to the roof of your house. The roof is an important part of your house and it’s often forgotten when improvements are made. Check that there are no missing tiles and that the roof is sealed everywhere. A fresh coat of paint is never a bad idea. Also check the gutters and make sure there are no blockages or cracks.

Check the gates. If there are wooden gates, use a layer of varnish to make them look like new. If they are electric, make sure they work without any issues. Check the rails of the gate and that grass or plants do not block the road. Iron or steel gates also need a coat of paint from time to time.

Check the windows and door frames. Ensure that they are not broken. Varnish or paint the wooden frames so they do not rot or break. Place shutters on the window frames to protect the wood from the sun.

Fix cracks in walls and clean them before applying paint. Use the correct paint for your walls so it lasts a couple of years. All you need is a paint roller and paint. With a little patience you can perform this task yourself.

Check the garage doors. Varnish or paint the doors if necessary. The hinges have to be oiled or lubricated if they do not move well or make a bad sound.

Try the water spickets. Check that they work well and that they do not leak. Brass or silver spickets can be washed with soap and water to remove dirt and grime that accumulates. You will also spend less by just cleaning them.

Take out the trash and clean the yard. Everything you do not use can be sold or thrown away. Clutter can give a bad impression of your home and makes your property look dirty and poorly maintained.

Clean exterior windows if they are dirty. You can clean them with water and vinegar if you do not have cleaning products. If they look bright and clean, your house will look better. Check them regularly, especially if you live near a sandy or dirty area.

Maintain the grass and yard.  Make sure the grass is cut and not long. Rake out the leaves and water the plants.

Tips

  • Now you can spend more time and spend money on your garden and lawn to create the garden you’ve always wanted. It does not make sense to have a nice garden if you have walls with cracks or broken shutters.
  • It is important to achieve all the basics first and make sure everything is in perfect condition.
  • Each step mentioned above can be done with effort and time. With patience and care, you can improve the exterior.
  • If you have time and resources, you can do the steps slowly until the entire property is well maintained.
masonry-8

Building a Patio

For most, a patio is a small garden area covered by pavers, instead of an area filled with grass and flowers. However, a patio can be more; It can be used for many purposes, from a playground for children when the grass is too wet, to an entertainment area for barbecues during summer nights. It can also be an ideal place to relax. When creating a patio, the focus is on the pavement and texture of the wall, both topics are discussed individually in this article.

Courtyard style

Imagine how you want the patio to look. A patio does not have to be flat. You can combine pavers, walls, steps, plants and different things that will make this space unique. You can also consider a courtyard in layers, if having one or more levels makes it easier to use the available space.

  • When you work on the design, start by measuring the space and take into account the existing obstacles. Determine how you will use the available space and what you will do with the obstacles.
  • Turn obstacles into attractions. For example, if there is a small native tree, you could incorporate it instead of knocking it down. This can be the starting point of the entire design. You can place the pavers around it and make it a focal point, instead of an obstacle.
  • Plants can be part of the patio or can be added later. If you are going to include them as part of the patio, you must include plant beds as part of the design. If they are to be added later, use containers to create an additional design element.

Use pavers and blocks to create different possibilities of the patio layout.

Try to do it by yourself. Actually, placing pavers and building walls for the garden are not complicated tasks. You do not need to be an expert to perform them.

Planning

Prepare. Most people have an idea of ​​how they want their yard to look, but they may find it difficult to do it. The secret is in planning.

  • Using a sheet of graph paper, and the measurements you have taken, draw to scale the part of the garden you want to develop.
  • Point out the immovable objects, such as the back wall of the house, the garage, the limit of your property, large trees and everything you want to keep.

If the patio is going to be built on a high part, or will have more than one level, indicate the place where you will place the steps.

Consider the color scheme of the pavers. Make the layout of the patio more interesting by mixing different colors of cobblestones, or you can leave empty spaces between them to allow the growth of plants and shrubs.

  • Consider decorating empty spaces with colored gravels.
  • You can include a water source or pond. It is important to note that if there are children at home, the water sources should not be very deep. Make sure the water does not stagnate and drains quickly.

Calculate the electrical and drainage needs. Plan the position of lighting and electrical and drainage services (for drainage, consult the relevant building regulations, or ask for the advice of a plumber or architect). Both the wiring and the drain must be installed and protected underground before starting.

  • Keep in mind that electrical installations must comply with the rules and regulations of your county. Consult a professional or ask for advice at the appropriate government offices. If you have any questions about electrical systems, consult a certified electrician.

Form patterns with cobblestones. Paving stones do not always have to be placed side by side. They can be placed as steps on grass, or as a path next to a wall. All these ideas should be outlined on the scale map.

  • In addition to drawing the design on a plan, you can buy some paving stones to evaluate what the chosen pattern will look like. Sometimes, doing this can change your ideas about the design, since you can see and feel the texture, color and depth.

Embed the design on the site

 

Once the plans are drawn, capture the design in full size, in the place where you will build the patio. Use ropes and stakes to mark the arrangement of all objects. This will allow you to verify that everything coincides with your original idea, and that the design does not take up too much space. The technical information needed in the design phase is the size of the pavers to be used, so this parameter must be included in the plans. Whenever possible, use full-size cobblestones to avoid cutting them constantly.

  • Keep in mind that the same applies to perimeter walls. You need to know the dimensions of the blocks to be able to make the plans with reasonable precision (remember to consider the space for the mortar). Using precise drawings, you can easily calculate the material requirements.

Consider the two essential rules you must follow if the patio will be along one wall of the house:

  • The level of the patio must be at least 15 cm (6 inches) below the level of the house.
  • The patio should have a slight inclination with respect to the wall, to ensure that the rainwater moves away from the house. A slope of 2 cm by 3 meters (2 inches by 10 feet) is the acceptable minimum.

Use the correct tools. If you need to cut the pavers or the blocks of the wall, it can be useful to rent cutters designed to cut paving stones and blocks from a hardware store.  If there are only a few cuts, you can make them with a hammer and a chisel.

  • If it is required to harden the surface under the pavers, you will need to flatten it very well with a compactor, which you can rent.
  • You will also need a good level of at least 60 cm (24 inches) in length.

Prepare the budget

It is always good to quote the cost of the materials required in metric units (you can change units using an online unit converter). This is an example of a list of materials for a patio of 3.6 X 2.7 m, using square cobbles of 45 cm and a wall of 3.6 m in length by 0.76 m in height. Use this list to calculate the material requirements:

  • As a guide of the required quantities we have: you need 5 pavers of 45 X 45 cm per square meter. 47 blocks of 30 X 10 X 6.5 cm for the wall, including the space for the mortar.
  • A bag of sand and cement will be enough to place 30 wall blocks of 30 x 100 x 6.5 cm. Two bags of cement and 13 bags of sand will be necessary and 5 per 5 square meters of paving stones.
  • Consider adding between 5 and 10% extra material to cover errors.

Add a plasticizer additive to the mortar to build the wall. This will improve your grip, resistance and handling during installation. There are three stages.

  • Construction of the wall
  • Preparation of the patio surface
  • Placement of paving stones

Construction of the wall

Unless you are building on concrete or firm structures, you will have to make adequate foundations before building the wall. The concrete part of the foundations must be at least 30 cm (12 inches) wide and not less than 7.5 cm (3 inches) thick. The blocks will rest on the concrete surface.

Dig a ditch Under the concrete, you will need at least 10 cm (4 inches) of a bonded surface. Therefore, you must dig a trench 18 to 20 cm (7 to 8 inches) deep in the place where you will build the wall.

  • Use stakes and ropes to mark the trench. Place 30 cm (12 inch) wooden stakes in the center of the trench, spaced at intervals of 120 cm (47 inches) to 180 cm (71 inches). Stakes should be projected from the base of the trench up to 2.5 cm (1 inch) below ground level.
  • Use a level and a ruler to ensure that the stakes are level. The stakes will be your guide when pouring the concrete, indicating the level of the surface.
  • Pour the concrete into the trench (whose surface must be well compacted) until it reaches the top of the stakes. Let the concrete dry.
  • You should remember to cover the trench with plastic to protect it from the rain, or prevent it from drying out too much in hot weather. Lay a rope along the concrete, on the side where the inside of the wall will go. This will ensure that the first row of blocks is aligned. The blocks will always be placed in the center of the concrete. Beginning at one end of the wall, spread mortar to a depth of approximately 1.2 cm (0.5 in) behind the rope. The mortar must be malleable, but not watery. Place the first block in place and press lightly, compressing the mortar around 9 mm (0.35 in). Check that it is level.

Continue placing the first row of blocks with approximately 9 mm (0.35 inches) of mortar between them. Make sure that the mortar does not stain the faces of the blocks.

  • Keep in mind that, for a straight wall with no return corners, the next row starts with half a block.

To cut a block, make a crack in the line of the cut with a chisel and a hammer. Leave the marked block on a sand bed, place the chisel in the crack and hit it firmly with the hammer. Alternatively, you can rent a cutter or a saw at an angle (especially if you have to make many cuts).

If a wall has a corner (return), then the second row will start with block 90 degrees from the first row. Keep building the wall row by row, making sure that the blocks are level, aligned vertically and horizontally, and that they contain 9 mm (0.35 inches) of mortar.

  • Remember to remove the excess mortar immediately, so that it does not stain the face of the blocks. Once it begins to dry, you can remove it using a rounded log or rake, or you can cut approximately 6 mm (0.2 inches) from the face of the block, using a shovel. This is a job that can be postponed, depending on the temperature, until the mortar has dried. Place the stone covering over the finished wall, using a layer of mortar.
  • The foundations are supported on footings and blocks of concrete that rest on the compacted surface. The shoes of the two walls are separated to allow drainage.

Prepare the floor for the patio

The way to prepare the floor to install pavers depends on the conditions of the place, the thickness of the paving stones, and what you want to do.

Note that some types of pavers, especially thin and fragile ones, can only be placed on a firm layer of mortar 25 mm thick, and joined with a layer of 8 to 10 mm (0.3 to 0.4 inches) of mortar. The use of any other technique, such as dry adhesive, could cause these pavers to break.

If the paving stones are strong enough, the soil is firm even when it is wet, and you are only going to place the paving stones, you only need to remove the grass and a little of the superficial earth. You just need to dig enough to ensure that by adding a layer of between 38 to 50 mm (1.4 to 1.9 inches) of sand and cobblestones, the top of these is just below the level of the lawn. Then you can cut the grass by the edges of the cobbles.

If the subsoil is less stable (for example, if it contains clay or peat), you have to dig deeper to place a layer of 100 mm (4 inches) of well compacted soil, before placing the sand bed. In both cases, the sand should be mixed with cement (1 part of cement for 9 parts of sand) and moistened with a little water. This mixture should be applied just before placing the pavers.

  • If thin pavers are to be laid, there must be a layer of at least 100 mm (4 inches) of compacted earth, then the pavers are placed on a 25 mm layer of mortar.
  • Very few areas are level enough to apply the cobbles directly. In some instances it is necessary to excavate, while in others it is necessary to add material in order to level them.
  • Never reuse clay or peat soils to prepare the ground (since these materials tend to settle). Always apply a well-compacted layer of soil.

Prepare the soil in advance. The time spent on good soil preparation is time well spent. If you do not make sure to prepare a firm base, it is likely that the paving stones do not maintain the level. A poor preparation of the land will cause the collapse or breakage of the paving stones, which will have to be replaced in about a year.

Place the pavement

Apply a layer of sand

After preparing the floor, the pavers can be placed on the cement and sand mixture mentioned above. This layer should have a thickness of 38 to 50 mm (1.4 to 1.9 inches). As with the wall blocks, you must make sure that the first row of cobblestones is perfectly aligned. You can use the walls of the house, or the perimeter wall to align the cobblestones.

Solid bed

Depending on the type of soil, as indicated above, dig a trench in which a layer of compacted soil can be placed, a layer of 25 mm (1 inch) of mortar and the cobblestones. The trench must be deep enough so that, once all these elements are placed, the paving stones are just below the level of the lawn.

Before placing the pavers, pour and level a layer of 25 mm (1 inch) of mortar over the compacted earth. Remember that the mortar tends to dry quickly in hot climates, so you should apply it in a single attempt. Work away from walls and other structures, and leave a gap of 8 and 10 mm (0.3 and 0.4 inches) to place the mortar.

  • Thin or brittle pavers should be placed on a mortar bed 25 mm (1 inch) thick.
  • Remember that if the pavers will be placed adjacent to a wall of the house, they should be 150 mm (6 inches) below the level of the moisture protection system. In addition, the pavers should be placed with a slope that takes the water away from the wall.

To ensure that the tilt is maintained, place 6 mm (0.2 inch) pieces of plywood or similar material. Place them on the end of the cobble that is farthest from the wall of the house.

  • Place the level on the plywood and the opposite end of the cobble. If the level bubble is centered, the slope is correct.
  • Leave 9 mm (0.35 inches) of space between the pavers. You must have prepared a good supply of spacers for this purpose, which you can make from pieces of plywood.

Make sure that the cement and sand bed, on which the pavers have been placed, is a stable base. If necessary, increase or remove the necessary amount of mixture to achieve a uniform base. You may find a slight variation in the color or hue of the cobbles of different boxes. If this happens, combine the pavers.

If you need to cut the cobblestones by hand, mark the cut line with a pencil. Place the cobblestone on a sand bed and make a groove along the mark, using a chisel and a hammer. Keep chopping the cobblestone until the groove reaches a depth of about 3 mm. Hit, with the handle of the hammer, the area of ​​the cobblestone that is going to be discarded. The cobble will separate along the groove marked by the chisel if it is deep enough. As mentioned above, it is better to rent a cobble cutter if you are going to make several cuts.

Do not walk on the cobblestones for at least 24 hours after installing them. After this time, you can remove the spacers and fill the spaces with mortar (avoid staining the cobblestone face with the mixture). This work can be tedious, but not doing so results in the growth of weeds between the cobblestones, and that they move from their original position.

  • If you do not have much time, or are not interested in filling each space individually, use grout to fill spaces larger than 5mm in width and 25mm in depth.
  • The paving stones are made with materials that contain natural salts. When getting wet, the salts can appear on the surface of the paving stones forming crystals or giving an appearance of discoloration (this phenomenon is known as “outcrop”), which is perfectly normal. Never try to clean the surface using more water, as you will only make more crystals appear. Let the pavers dry and brush them with a dry patio broom. Repeat this process for a while and the salts will stop appearing.

Build rungs in the garden

If you are going to build the patio in a slanted place, or if you plan to do it with 2 or more levels, you may need to build steps. This is a relatively simple task that involves placing wall blocks on concrete footings at the lower end (at ground level), and then placing pavers over the block, following the normal procedure for installing them. The paving stones will be the treads of the rungs, while the blocks will be the risers.

If there are more than two levels, the second block must be placed on the surface covered by pavers. Therefore, the paving stones should be on a firm surface of compacted earth and a layer of the mixture of cement and sand (in this case, the mixture should be around 1 part of cement for 6 parts of sand) slightly damp.

Make sure you get a permit for construction. It is necessary to obtain this permit to build garage access with waterproof surfaces, because they make rainwater percolation difficult and cause it to flow towards the roads.

Choose one of these three options when replacing or installing a garage access in the front of the garden. The appropriate option depends on the soil conditions and the regulations that apply in your area. It is advisable that you seek the advice of a competent authority, to guide you in the selection.

  • Build a waterproof surface and request a construction permit from the responsible authority in your area.
  • Build a waterproof surface and make sure that the rainwater is directed to an absorption well, which you must build inside your property.
  • Build a permeable surface, which does not require a building permit.

Removing Vinyl Siding

Over time, vinyl siding in your home can become deformed, damaged or stained. Does the exterior of your house desperately need a renovation? There are many reasons why it may become necessary to remove or replace the vinyl siding on the outside of your home. The good news is that, with the right knowledge and tools, in addition to a little time and energy, removing the existing vinyl siding will be a fairly simple project that you can do yourself. Read the following article to learn how to remove the vinyl siding from your home

Prepare the work area.

  • Eliminate any obstacles or debris that may interfere with the correct use of a ladder.
  • Find a large space where you can handle and manipulate large sections of vinyl siding once you have removed it from the house. You may have to temporarily move patio furniture, large pots, etc.

Find the specific coating section that needs to be removed or select your starting point to remove it from top to bottom. In addition, you should look for the flange above the selected section.

Raise the selected section of vinyl siding to expose your anchor nails.

  • Use a tool to remove vinyl siding or a zip tool to lift the siding by sliding this tool between the space of the selected section and the section just above it.
  • Pull the vinyl top section firmly down to unlock it from surrounding pieces, particularly the section selected below it. Continue pulling gently along the entire piece until the liner hangs freely.
  • Lift the separate part of the siding to expose the top of the siding section you wish to remove. The anchor nails of the selected section should now be clearly exposed.

Remove the anchor nails with a hammer. Do it from left to right, being careful not to miss any nails.

Remove the part no longer anchored from the coating and discard it properly. If the lining does not come off easily, you may have to slide the piece through the molding of the channels at each end.

Repeat the process row by row until all other sections of vinyl siding are removed.

Tips

  • If you are going to remove more than one section of vinyl siding, start from the top and continue down.
  • Remove the moldings of the left, right and top channels, as well as the lower initial strip.

Things you will need

  • Zip tool
  • Hammer
  • Ladder
  • Work gloves